Online Editors note: This material, as written by a gentleman friend of Eddie Aikau, was prepared in 1996, in anticipation of that year's event which was not held - portions of it may not accuately reflect the format of the '99 event, as surfed.
Contest director, George Downing had surfed big waves with his good friend Eddie
Aikau many times. When he was asked by Quiksilver to create an event in Eddie
Aikau's honor, he knew it would need two elements; the spirit of Hawai`i and
big
surf. The waves would have to be 20' or bigger and it would have to be at
Waimea Bay, where Eddie had been a lifeguard and where he loved to surf.
The Hawaiian spirit was already there. Eddie was loved and looked up to; a
hero,
drawing on his skills as a Hawaiian waterman to save lives and charge the
biggest
and most dangerous waves on the North Shore. Any big wave riders invited to
participate in the event knew about him, Eddie had either helped them develop
their own surfing or inspired them with his surfing. Everyone respected Eddie
and gathering in his memory would be an honor.
The idea of a big wave event was foreign to the direction of professional
surfing
at that time. Pro surfing promoters had swayed away from waves of consequence.
Contest directors were trying to build up a viable world tour and were more
concerned about weather, crowds and sponsorship than about surf quality or
size.
The professional circuit had adopted a minimum wave size that wavered
somewhere between six and eighteen inches. Events were held at inland wave-
pools" in places like Allentown, Pennsylvania, where competitors rode
artificial
waves. At one spectacle in Florida, surfers had to compete on boat wakes
because
there wasn't any swell. In Japan, a contest had been held where the surfers
could
barely get to their feet before their fins touched sand and the tiny waves
lapped
on shore. World Champions were being chosen that never had to encounter waves
that were even medium size by Hawaiian standards.
Downing would not waver from his vision, it would be an event Eddie and the
Hawaiians would be proud of or it wouldn't be done at all. To prove his
point, he
took a video tape of big wave riding to an industry trade show in Southern
California and left it playing in the Quiksilver display area. When people
were
drawn to the footage like moths to a flame, Quiksilver realized that
Downing was
right and pledged their support to the event.
The twenty foot wave size requirement for the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie
Aikau is big even by Hawaiian standards. Holding out for truly big waves has
meant that the contest has only been run twice during it' s inception. The
first
event was held Sunday, February 21, 1986. The wind direction was not ideal but
the size was there. That morning. concerned about the conditions, Downing sent
his son, Keone out into the twenty foot plus surf to make sure it was ridable.
Three heats went off, in a format that allowed the contestants minimal crowds,
plenty of time to catch waves, and a chance to come from behind to improve
their
standing.
Later that day, after hours in a line-up filled with the best big wave
riders in the
world, Eddies brother, Clyde Aikau emerged the winner. His very first wave was
a twenty footer, and from that point on Clyde never looked back. Mark Foo
challenged by riding the biggest wave of the event, a twenty-five footer. But
Clyde had been too consistent, it had been his day and everyone was stoked he
was the first to win in his brother's name.
The next event went off on Sunday, January 21, 1990 at Waimea Bay in perfect
20 - 25 foot surf with some 30 foot sets. After a wait of nearly three
years, the
combination of a typhoon in the Philippines and a gigantic storm off Japan
joined
to produce sustained winds of over fifty knots to generate what veteran Waimea
surfers called one of the most consistent and ridable big days in the
history of
surf at The Bay.
An international field of 33 invited surfers contested the flawless waves
in two
rounds for a total of 6 hours. Each round had three heats of 11 surfers who
were
allowed to catch four waves in one hour. Each surfer, after resting for one
to two
hours was able to go out again in round 2 to catch an additional four waves.
Surfers were judged on their four highest scoring rides from the two rounds.
This unique format allowed each surfer a chance to come from behind, as many
did.
The level of surfing was astounding as surfer after surfer dropped into
gigantic
waves that were reaching well over four stories high on the larger sets.
Traffic
was stopped and every available vantage point was utilized, the huge crowd
leaping to their feet numerous times to applaud the stunning performances.
Conditions and wave size held consistent throughout the last heat of the
second
round, giving all contestants a chance to win. This eased the pressure of
judging
and offered the surfers the opportunity to be rewarded for increasing their
performance level.
Keone Downing consistently selected big waves to win the event and $55,000.
which is the richest first prize ever given in the history of the sport. A
fellow
surfer commented, "Keone was on a mission with no distractions other than
methodically selecting big waves, positioning deep, using a high line of
vertical
descent with maximum speed across the face of the wave". He charged the The
Bay with elegance and respect.
Brock Little, one of the youngest Waimea Bay surfers came from 12th place in
the Ist round to capture second place. He took off on a huge set wave and
courageously pulled into the tube and reappeared before an avalanche of white
water ended his ride. The crowd on the beach roared their approval during a
standing ovation.
Richard Schmidt, a veteran big wave rider from Santa Cruz took third,
capping a
strong performance in the 1st round (9th place) by going for an "EDDIE
WOULD GO' Waimea point wave - one of the biggest waves of the day.
According to Keone Downing, who was paddling back out after riding a wave
just minutes before, "When paddling back out after my ride I saw Richard start
down this vertical take-off. The face of the wave had hollowed out under him.
The updraft of wind forced up the wave face lifted his board. He and his board
then free-fell 5 - 10 feet down the face of the wave before the skeg
settled into
the wave face. Richard's expression when this happened seemed to have been one
of relief, having everything back under control, he then completed the
ride." On
the beach, the crowd went crazy, the judges gave Schmidt a perfect score of 20
points each.
It was a day of great camaraderie among the surfers and a day of many
"personal
bests" as surfers had a chance to ride some of the best and biggest waves
of their
careers. Waimea regulars Michael Ho, Clyde Aikau, and Darrick Doerner, 4th,
5th, and 6th respectively, had an outstanding day while relative new comers
like
Ross Clarke-Jones of Australia, showed the class of new blood charin into
7th place in his second year at The Bay.
The contest was, to quote big wave pioneer Flippy Hoffman, "Bitchen, great
waves, great performances and good fun."
There was a sigh of relief from George Downing when the event ended. He
looked up as though he was about to say something to someone - or maybe to
catch something said to him - then it started to rain. He finally said,
"Great day.
few boards broken, minor injuries, and friends pitched in to make this happen.
Sharing this with the surfers made me feel young again; and oh yes, great
overhead waves. The rain stopped.
Quiksilver and all the invitees were proud to have participated in this
event - it
was a day that Eddie would have loved.
With clear skies, ideal conditions, and some of the biggest waves to hit
Waimea
Bay in over five years, the first round of The Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie
Aikau was held Friday, December 29, 1995. Contest Director George Downing
put participants on stand-by Wednesday December 27th as he watched an
enormous storm system develop in the Northwest Pacific. Thursday, all invitees
and alternates were advised to gather at Waimea Bay on Friday morning.
Downing consulted with his team of meteorologists and monitored buoy reports
throughout Thursday night, correlating the wind direction, speed and fetch
data
to his extensive big surf experience. Amid Civil Defense warnings of
evacuation
and waves washing across Kamehameha Highway on the North Shore, Downing
arrived at Waimea before dawn to check conditions. There were already people
gathering in anticipation of the event.
First light showed perfect conditions at Waimea Bay. Huge dark walls
stacked the
horizon and peeled across The Bay, as a delicate offshore wind combed back the
crests. The surf was beautiful - the rare combination of size and clean
surface
conditions that surfers dream of. Downing watched as a few huge sets
meeting the
required 20' minimum came through. People on the beach stood awe struck
watching, collectively gasping as the surfers were dwarfed by the mountainous
waves. As the dark walls stood and heaved against the sky, surfers paddled
into
position - some trying to avoid the waves - others clawing their way into
the steep
drops and accelerating down the vertical faces. As though nature supported the
event, first one radiant rainbow, then two manifest off Waimea point, their
glow
embracing The Bay.
With twin rainbows above, warm sunny skies, a clean, huge swell and excellent
surface conditions, word went out that surfers were to report at 9:30 AM as
scaffolds, judges, and support personnel went into position for an 11:00 AM
start.
Downing settled on four 50 minute heats for the first round, with eight
surfers in
three of the heats and nine in the fourth. Downing kept the heats as long as
possible with the minimum number of surfers in the water at the same time to
afford each participant the best opportunity to ride the biggest waves.
Each of the first four heats enjoyed blue skies occasionally traversed by
subtly
tinted billowing clouds. Clean surface conditions enhanced the big set
waves. The
entire Waimea Bay Park was jammed with spectators that overflowed onto
Waimea Point. Along all the surrounding roads every vantage point was pressed
into service. Brightly colored big wave boards contrasted against the lush
green
lawn and grainy sand. Surfers came in congratulating each other and sharing
stories of their rides. Photographers tended their cameras and lenses -
pointed
toward the line-up like artillery. People stopped and stared at Eddie's
memorial
on their way to the shade beneath the swaying palms and Ironwood pines.
Most sets detonated the violent shorebreak - exploding white water into the
air
and causing the lifeguard to issue a stern warning for the spectators to
stay well
away from the rush of incoming white water that would bound up the steep
beach, foaming and frothing - before running back to sea. Water patrol jet
skis
teased the powerful waves, quickly and nimbly skirting their energy. Hawaiian
music mixed with the warm trade winds as famous surf event announcer, the
silver haired Lord "Tally Ho" Blears called out the spectacular rides -
intermixing North Shore surf stories and drawing on world history to keep the
pulse racing and the smiles flowing throughout the heats.
Scoring the surfer's performances went as follows. Every wave ridden by a
surfer was judged by seven judges. Each judge scored each ride surfer's
ride with
a value of 1 to 20 points. The value of each ride was determined by each judge
(this is a subjective call) based on the size of the wave, positioning of
take-off,
how critical the take-off is, and maneuvers used to maintain position and
control
of the body and board. Because this event is to be held in "Big Waves", the
highest value score will be given to the surfer who rides "The Biggest Wave",
The Greatest Distance", "In the Most Critical Section". All maneuvers that
allow
a surfer to achieve his goal will be part to the total value given by each
judge. At
the end of each heat, All judges score sheets are checked for clarity by
the head
recorder before computing is started. When this is complete, each surfer's
Individual Wave score of all judges is totaled. This is done by first
eliminating
one judges high (H) and one judges low (L) score from each judge's score
sheet.
Eliminating a high and low score is done to limit any prejudice that may
exist in
the panel of judges, as done in Olympic Diving. The final scores for the first
round totaled to attain the following results:
*Mark Foo was killed surfing big waves at Maverick's (California) - December 2, 1994. A great surfer, he participated in every Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau event since 1986. In honor, his spot as an invitee is left unfilled. Shortly after 2:,0 with all the surfers having completed the first round, Downing called a meeting. The unique format of the event allows surfers to come from behind and win with a strong performance in the second heat, but Downing had noticed that the huge swell was tapering in size. There were not enough sets of the required 20' waves to continue with the second round of the competition. After consulting with the entire Judges staff and many of the invited surfers, Downing he made the decision fairest to all and conforming to the Contest Rules wave size requirements; no second round heats would be called and the event would be continued when the next swell would allow the contest to resume. The scores from the first round of the competition would stand to be tabulated with the second round to be held the next time the swell attained the required size. The afternoon proved Downing's call correct - the waves remained beautiful but the consistency of the huge sets dropped. The surfers and crowd remained at The Bay - enjoying the spirit of the event and celebrating the beautiful waves ridden in honor of Eddie Aikau. As the sunset lit the clouds the people stayed on - watching the waves - and basking in a glow that remained with them long after dark.
Observations - Richard Schmidt I sat on the point to watch the first two heats. I was impressed by Brock Little in the first heat - his positioning was spot on - his confidence and experience really came out. The waves were so clean, that guys were really having fun. Ross Williams made some impressive rides - he's really applied himself. Ross Clark-Jones and Brock both got barrels. When the waves got more inconsistent in the late afternoon, it showed how special those big waves are. In the second heat there were some nice waves - some big bombers. Michael Ho had a deal on it - there was a little more wind so the guys had to be a little more selective. Poto (Vetea David) got some good waves. Marvin Foster went left in the third heat. I was in the fourth (last) heat. I paddled out with Clyde Aikau and Dennis Pang. I was pretty relaxed. Since there are no eliminations, there's a whole different vibe to this contest. If you see a good ride - it just makes you try harder - you get inspired by the surfing. I was paddling back out and saw Shane Dorian get a big, vertical drop - just straight down and he pulled it off. Everyone was so stoked - it was like there was a stoked aura the whole day - lots of smiles in the line-up. Later at the meeting there was so much momentum that the initial reaction to waiting for the next swell was disappointment - but the dropping swell proved George Downing made a great call.
George with Rell Sunn at the Roxy Quiksilver press conference in '96 |
Last Modified: 19990108.0909 HST Friday
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